• Julia Mulcair

Making a foam cup wired bra

A foam cup bra really does give a nice shape. One way to make a foam cup bra is with cut and sew foam, which is great because you can sew it into any shape you like, and use and pattern you like. But if you're after an easier option, you can use a moulded foam cup.

The cups I've used for this project are the natural foam cups They are a natural shape, and are subtly padded so don't provide extra lift.

The first thing to think of is what size to choose. They are sized in dress sizes, and your dress size is unlikely to be the size you need. The best way to determine the size you need is to measure the wire line of a bra that fits, and match it to the measurement in the listing.

For example, I wear a 12DD and the size 16 cup was a perfect fit.

You'll also need to check it against the pattern you intend to use.

I used a self drafted pattern for this project ( don't worry... it will be available for purchase soon) but you could use any wired bra pattern.

My first step was to cover the foam cups. I marked the centre top and bottom with a pin, then placed the fabric over the top, pinning it in place at centre top and bottom.

I then pinned across the top so it was smooth, and added some pleats to the bottom centre to smooth out the fabric over the cup

I used a zigzag stitch to secure the fabric all the way round, being sure to stich close to the edge. Then cut away the excess fabric

Next I assembled the band. This was pretty straight forward standard construction method.

Here's where it got a bit tricky, and you will benefit from my mistakes!

Order of operation is important for this make, and is a little different to a normal wired bra.

So here's what I learnt!

Next step is to bind the top of the cups

At this point I would also apply the elastic to the top and bottom of the band.

I didn't apply the elastic to the top of the band before I sewed on the casing, which I had to unpick, and if you've ever unpicked casing you'll know how fun that was!

Once you've done that you can set the cups in. Like I said, I did it a bit the wrong way round so my pictures don't reflect the best order of assembly.

Now you should have your cups set in, with elastic applied top and bottom. You can now sew your casing in and pop your underwires in.

Now you can attach your straps and bra back, a bow and a charm, and voila!

Key points to take away from this make

1: make sure you start with the right size cup

2: make sure your cup is going to fit into the bra frame you have chosen

3: pay attention to your order of operation so you come away with the best possible finish

It's a super cute, fun little project!

There are kits available for this make here

Happy sewing

Julia x

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